CPRG undertake a range of research projects related to the coastal environment.
Our projects vary in size and duration with funding coming from a variety of sources; research councils – Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC) and Natural Environment Research Council (NERC) – local authorities, industry and charities.
We collaborate with research groups within the University of Plymouth and form partnerships with academics from other universities.
Some examples of current projects can be found below along with details of some projects and work that has been recently completed.
If you have a project in mind or would like to discuss collaborating please get in touch via email:
Professor Gerd Masselink
.
Location: atoll islands in the Maldives and the Pacific Ocean
UKRI-funded (£2.8M)
UKRI-funded (£2.8M)
- The project comprises three main types of activities – data collection and analysis, numerical model development, model application for management. New knowledge and understanding of atoll island response to SLR will be obtained using unprecedented laboratory experiments (in the Delta Flume, Netherlands) and field measurements (in the Maldives and Pacific).
- The unique data sets acquired will be used to develop, calibrate and validate hydro- and morphodynamic numerical models (using the XBeach suite of models). These models will then be deployed in an innovative modelling framework to evaluate the role of the various processes involved in the island response. Finally, the modelling tools will be deployed to enable atoll island communities to implement adaptation strategies that maximise opportunities for continued habitation.
Location: Gravel and mixed-sand-gravel beaches and barriers in the UK
Funded by NERC (£3M; £0.5 for University of Plymouth)
Funded by NERC (£3M; £0.5 for University of Plymouth)
- The principal aim of the project is to enhance understanding of gravel barrier systems and improve predictive capability to support more sustainable coastal management, increase overall coastal zone resilience and reduce vulnerability to climate change.
- Approach: (1) develop a UK-wide gravel barrier typology encompassing morpho-sedimentary structure and dynamics; (2) collect and analyse field data of event-scale gravel barrier dynamics; (3) collect and analyse laboratory data, and derive new equations for key processes; (4) develop new predictive capability for gravel barrier dynamics over short- to long-term time scales, accounting for cross-shore and longshore sediment transport; and (5) apply new understanding and enhanced numerical capability to project future dynamics of gravel barriers.
Website: https://www.makingspaceforsand.co.uk/
Location: sandy beach-dune systems in Cornwall
Location: sandy beach-dune systems in Cornwall
This project is funded by Defra (£6M; 0.8M for University of Plymouth) is part of the £200 million Flood and Coastal Innovation Programmes which are managed by the Environment Agency. The programmes will drive innovation in flood and coastal resilience and adaptation to a changing climate.
- The aim of the Making Space for Sand Project is to encourage the more sustainable use and development of the coastal fringe to allow for a more natural, ecosystem approach to coastal management where traditional coastal protection is not possible.
- Contribution of University of Plymouth to the project is to increase our understanding of the impacts of sandy beach-dune systems to sea-level rise and develop tools to predict these impacts.
Location: Study cases include Dawlish, Penzance and Crosby
Duration: Ongoing
Duration: Ongoing
- NERC and Met Office £300,000 funded project.
- Aims to improve the current understanding of wave overtopping hazard using AI and EO applications in coastal areas.
- The project will 'build a deployable coastal overtopping warning tool (SPLASH) with the vision of transforming weather and climate research and services through transformative technologies.'
- It is one of the five projects awarded within the Twinning Capability for the Natural Environment (TWINE) programme.
Location: Dawlish, Devon and Penzance, Cornwall, UK
Duration: Ongoing
Duration: Ongoing
- NERC £176,000 funded project through NERC’s Constructing a Digital Environment programme.
- CreamT is a 2-year project led by Liverpool NOC and aims to demonstrate a new coastal hazard monitoring and alert system that has the potential to be integrated into National Monitoring Networks across the UK.
- Aims to develop an automated smart flood and coastal erosion hazard monitoring system to measure hazards at the point-of-impact.
- Aims to develop a new web service to collate, format, harmonise and expose existing disparate national hazard data.
- Aims to expand citizen-led coastal erosion monitoring initiatives and increase the public’s awareness of coastal hazards
Location: Isles of Scilly, Cornwall, UK
Duration: Ongoing
Duration: Ongoing
As part of the NERC-funded BLUEcoast project, a core team researchers and technicians from the
Coastal Processes Research Group
and the
Coastal Marine Applied Research consultancy group
was based on the island of St Martins, Isles of Scilly, during September 2020 to measure hydro- and sediment-dynamic processes within seagrass meadows.
- Seagrasses are of significant importance ecologically, but may also serve an important natural coastal protection function by extracting energy from waves and currents, and thus promoting sedimentation processes. As a result, seagrasses possess significant ‘natural capital’, that is, are of value to our society through the various services they provide. However, how exactly moving seagrass fronds effect wave, current and sediment transport processes and to what extent they promote sedimentation and provide natural coastal protection is largely unknown.
- An extensive research programme was executed in September and October 2020, comprising of mapping, sediment sampling and instrument deployment.
Forecasting Coastal Evolution (ForCE)
Location: Global – Modelling the morphodynamic evolution of beaches around the world
Duration: Ongoing
Duration: Ongoing
- Develop a new numerical modelling system (ForCE), capable of tracking and forecasting key resilience indicators for erosion and accretion of sedimentary coastlines, on time-scales of days to decades, facilitating evidenced-based coastal management.
- Establish and disseminate a unique online dataset for calibrating and rigorously testing the ForCE and other coastal evolution models.
- Establish a forum of UK and international coastal scientists, managers (Environment Agency) and forecasters (Met Office) with the collective goal of developing a management framework and state indicators, (based on the ForCE model output), which are indicative of the current and future health and resilience of the coast, facilitating evidenced-based coastal management.
- Develop, demonstrate and rigorously test using field-data a near real-time implementation of the ForCE model - coastal state indicator prediction system at two dynamically contrasting UK field sites.
Coastal Modelling of Extreme Storms and Sea-Level Rise (CMESSLR)
Location: Delft, Maldives, Sydney, Auckland and Santa Cruz
Duration 2019–2021
Duration 2019–2021
- Overseas Travel Grant funded by EPSRC.
- Aim of this grant is, through collaboration with world-leading external partners, to increase coastal modelling capabilities of CPRG.
- Collaboration with Deltares, University of New South Wales, University of Auckland and USGS.
Response of coral reef islands to sea-level rise
Location: Various locations in the Pacific and Indian Ocean
Duration: 2017–current
Duration: 2017–current
- Ongoing collaboration with various coral reef scientists from the Netherlands, New Zealand and USA.
- Focus on using physical and numerical modelling to investigate the impact of sea-level rise on coral reef islands.
Press releases related to this work:
BLUEcoast
Location: North Cornwall, South Devon
Duration: 2016–2020
Duration: 2016–2020
- NERC £4 million project.
- Importance of sediment budgets and their role in coastal recovery.
- Model development of coastal change and coastal vulnerability.
- Holistic and multidisciplinary approach, combining the expertise of biologists, coastal engineers, geologists, geographers and oceanographers.
South West Partnership for Environmental and Economic Prosperity (SWEEP)
Location: South West Coast of England and South Wales
Duration: 2017–2020
Duration: 2017–2020
- NERC £400,000 funded project.
- SWEEP wave model to enable better preparation for storm events in the South West.
- Aims to improve the level of detail and accuracy possible when predicting coastal flooding.
- Part of the wider South West Partnership for Environmental and Economic Prosperity (SWEEP) project. A new initiative that will help deliver economic and community benefits to the South West via multiple agencies.
Waves Across Shore Platforms (WASP)
Location: Various UK locations
Duration: 2014–2016
Duration: 2014–2016
- Detailed wave measurements across a range of rocky platforms around the UK coastline.
- Mapping the decay in wave energy across intertidal rocky platforms.
- Found measurements will be used to improve existing models which aim to provide a predictive tool for examining wave energy reaching our coastline which can cause erosion and cliff falls.
Location: Perranporth, UK
Duration: 2010–2013
Duration: 2010–2013
- Collect two extensive field data sets to investigate and parameterise the relation between wave dissipation and rip dynamics over time scales ranging from minutes to days.
- Use the field data to improve, validate and calibrate a numerical model (XBeach) capable of simulating nearshore cell circulation and rip current dynamics.
- Develop a decision-support system (DSS) to predict several days in advance, and for different stages of the tide, the risk presented by rip currents to surf-zone water users.
Location: Loe Bar, Cornwall
Duration: 2010–2013
Duration: 2010–2013
- Collect detailed field measurements of waves, swash, groundwater and bed level change on a gravel beach during storm conditions.
- Use the detailed field measurements to help develop a computer model to predict storm impact on gravel beaches.
- Collect an extensive data set on storm response on 11 UK gravel barrier systems, representing a range of environmental conditions.
- Use the extended dataset to verify the predictive capability of the storm impact model.
- Develop a tool for end-users for predicting berm formation, overtopping, overwashing and breaching of gravel beaches and barriers.
Location: Plymouth and Praa Sands, UK
Duration: 2009–2013
Duration: 2009–2013
- Models of bathymetric evolution, in the nearshore region, are of fundamental importance for studies on the coastal impacts of global warming and relative sea level rise.
- Project aims to improve process-based models which are used to simulate onshore, offshore and longshore adjustments in nearshore bathymetry.
- Combination of laboratory experiments (oscillating grid turbulence tank), field measurements, and numerical simulations designed to improve our ability to reproduce observed morphology changes through the inclusion of missing physics.
Active projects
| Project | Grant holder | Duration | Funding source |
|---|---|---|---|
| BLUE-coast, Physical and Biological Dynamic Coastal Processes and their Role in Coastal Recovery | Professor Masselink, Professor Russell, Dr Conley and Dr Scott | 2016–2020 | NERC |
| Waves Across Shore Platforms (WASP) | Professor Masselink and Dr Martin Austin of Bangor University | 2014–2016 | EPSRC (EP/L025191/1) |
| Environmental Monitoring of Salt Marsh Restoration Project at South Efford | Dr Ken Kingston, Dr Mick Hanley, Professor Roland Gehrels and Dr Will Blake | 2012– | Environment Agency Grant |
| From runup to overwash (RUSH) | Consultancy with Dr Ana Matias of Centre for Marine and Environmental Research, University of Algarve | 2012– | Science and Technology Foundation (Portugal) |
Completed projects
| Project | Grant holder | Duration | Funding source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Impact of extreme storms during 13/14 on South West coast of England | Professor Masselink, Professor Russell, Dr Davidson, Dr Conley, Dr Scott and Dr Fletcher | 2014–2015 | NERC (NE/M004996/1) |
| Topographic rip currents | Professor Masselink, Professor Russell, Dr Scott and Dr Austin | 2012 | RNLI/Met Office/Marine Institute |
| Quaternary Raised Beaches of Devon and Cornwall: New Data for an Old Problem | Dr Matt Telfer, Professor Roland Gehrels, Dr Will Marshall, Dr Ken Kingston and Dr Sarah Boulton | 2012– | Marine Institute Small Collaborative Research Grant |
| Proto-type Experiment and Numerical Modelling of Energetic Sediment Transport under Waves (PESTS) | Professor Masselink and Dr Conley | 2012– | EPSRC EP/K000306/1 |
| Coastal cliff erosion in Cornwall | Professor Masselink and Dr Russell | 2011–2014 | European Social Fund and Great Western Research |
| Adaptation and resilience of coastal energy supply | Professor Masselink and Dr Russell (with A. Plater of University of Liverpool) | 2011–2013 | EPSRC |
| Barrier dynamics experiment II (BARDEX II) | Professor Masselink, Dr Conley and Dr Austin | 2011–2012 | EU FP7 |
| Coarse sediment dynamics of rivers rising on Dartmoor National Park: implications for conservation and rural land management | P. Ganderton (with P. Downs, School of Geography) | 2011–2012 | Seale-Hayne Educational Trust |
| New Understanding and Prediction of Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches – NUPSIG | Professor Masselink, Professor Russell and Dr Davidson | 2010–2013 | EPSRC |
| Dynamics of Rips and Implications for Beach Safety – DRIBS | Professor Masselink and Professor Russell | 2010–2013 | NERC |
| Postgraduate Travel Grant - ICCE 2010 | A. Ruiz de Alegria Arzaburu | 2010 | Royal Academy of Engineering |
| Development and pre-operational validation of upgraded GMES Marine Core Services and capabilities (MyOcean) | Professor Shapiro | 2009–2011 | EU FP7 |
| Development of a resource assessment tool for tidal power generation devices: regional modelling | Dr Conley | 2009–2011 | Great Western Research and International Power |
| Turbulence, sediment stratification and altered resuspension under waves - TSSAR Waves | Dr Conley and Dr Nimmo Smith | 2009–2013 | NERC |
| Groundwater seepage through a gravel barrier: implications for coastal erosion, saline-freshwater mixing and nutrient dispersal | Dr Austin and Professor Masselink | 2009–2011 | Seale-Hayne Educational Trust |
| Morphological impacts and coastal risks induced by extreme storm events (MICORE) | J. Williams and L. Esteves | 2008–2011 | EU FP7 |
| Beach change over individual wave cycles on sand and gravel beaches | Professor Masselink and Professor Russell | 2008–2010 | NERC |
| Barrier Dynamics Experiment BARDEX: European Community`s Sixth Framework Programme, Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDRALAB III | J. Williams, Professor Masselink, Professor Russell, and others | 2008 | EU |
| Wave hub impacts on seabed and shoreline change WHISSP | J. Williams, Dr Davidson, L. Esteves, P. Ganderton, D.A. Huntley, K. Kingston, Professor Masselink, J. Miles, Dr Nimmo Smith and Professor Russell | 2007–2010 | SWRDA |
| Coastal Flooding by Extreme Events – CoFEE | J. Williams, L. Esteves and Professor Masselink | 2007–2010 | NERC |
| Wave-by-wave bed-level changes at the beachface of gravel and sand beaches | I.L. Turner (University of New South Wales, Australia) with Professor Russell and Professor Masselink | 2007–2010 | Australian Research Council |
| Southern European Seas: Assessing and Modelling Ecosystem Change (SESAME) | Dr Shapiro | 2006–2011 | EU FP6 |
| Maximising the use of x-band radar images to extract hydrodynamic and morphologic information in nearshore areas | J.J Williams | 2008 | Geography PuP Fund |
| Estuarine Situation in Devon and Cornwall: the Role of Agricultural Land Use | Professor Gehrels, Professor Blake and Professor Masselink | 2008 | Seale-Hayne Educational Trust |
| Research-led investigations of coastal processes | L. Esteves and J. Williams | 2007–2008 | Funded by SSB TQEF Research-informed teaching initiative and CETL in Experiential Learning |
| The Plymouth Student Scientist | Gresty, K. Kingston and Auburn | 2007–2009 | Teaching Quality Enhancement Fund |
| LEACOAST II - Large scale morphodynamic impacts of segmented shore-parallel breakwaters on coasts and beaches | Dr Davidson with civil engineering | 2006–2009 | EPSRC |
| RF PEBL - A Risk-based Framework for Predicting Long-term Beach Evolution | Dr Davidson with civil engineering | 2006–2009 | EPSRC |
| Classification and risk assessment of UK beaches | Professor Russell and Professor Masselink | 2006–2009 | RNLI and HEIF2 |
| The Marine Sciences Forum | Dr O`Hare and Pannel | 2006 | University of Plymouth Teaching Fellowship Award |
| The role of the beach step in swash zone and nearshore sediment transport on a steep gravel beach | Dr Austin and Dr Buscombe | 2005 | The British Geomorphological Research Group |
| Avon Estuary siltation project | Professor Blake, Professor Gehrels and Professor Masselink | 2005–2007 | South Hams Society |
| Development of innovative instrumentation to measure high frequency bed level changes in the swash zone | Professor Russell | 2005 | EPSRC overseas travel grant |
| Development of new instrumentation at the University of New South Wales, Australia, to measure swash zone bathymetry to support participation in international research programme (SWASH3D) | Professor Russell | 2005 | UNSW Engineering Faculty Research grant |
| Planning for an integrated field study of swash zone processes (SWASH3D) | Professor Russell | 2005 | US Office of Naval Research (ONR) |
| Land based multispectral monitoring of the nearshore environment | K. Kingston | 2004–2007 | NERC |
| Cross-shore sediment transport and Professorile evolution on natural beaches - X-SHORE | Professor Russell, Dr O`Hare and Professor Masselink | 2004–2008 | NERC |
| FD 2107: Development of Estuary Morphological Models | Dr Manning | 2006–2007 | Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory & Defra/EA |
| Development of innovative instrumentation to measure high frequency bed level changes in the swash zone. EPSRC overseas travel grant | Professor Russell to collaborate with Dr Ian Turner, Water Research Laboratory, University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia | 2005 | EPSRC |
| Video Monitoring of Littorial Processes in Support of Coastal Zone Management | Dr Davidson and D.A. Huntley | 2002–2005 | EC |
| FD1905: Estuary Process Research project – EstProc | D.A.Huntley, Dr Manning, K.R.Dyer | 2002–2005 | EA/Defra & HR Wallingford |
| Human Interaction with Large-Scale Coastal Morphological Evolution | Dr O`Hare and D.A. Huntley | 2001–2004 | EC |
| The Role of Swash in Shoreline Change | Dr Russell, Professor Huntley and Dr Masselink |
2000–2003 | NERC |
| Quanitification of Sediment Entrainment in the Coastal Zone (COSMOD) | Professor Russell and D.A Huntley (with University of Cambridge and University of Liverpool) | 1998–2001 | ESPRC |
| Sediment and Water Movement in Industrialized Estuarine Environments (SWAMIEE) | D.A. Huntley and Dr Davidson | 1998–2001 | EC |
| Intermediate Scale Behaviour: Measurement, Modelling and Prediction | D.A. Huntley and Dr Davidson | 1997–2001 | US ONR (NICOP) |
| Inlet Dynamics Initiative - Algarve (INDIA) | D.A. Huntley and Dr Davidson | 1997–2001 | EC |
| Surf and Swash Zone Mechanics (SASME) | D.A. Huntley, P.A. Bird and Dr O`Hare | 1997–2001 | EC |
| Coastal Study of Three-Dimensional Sand Transport Processes and Morphodynamics (COAST3D) | D.A. Huntley, P.A. Bird and Professor Russell | 1997–2001 | EC |
| Sand Transport on Macrotidal Beaches | Professor Russell and D.A. Huntley | 1994–1995 | NERC |