- Room 115, Reynolds, Drake Circus, Plymouth, Devon, PL4 8AA
- +44 1752 585902
- gerd.masselink@plymouth.ac.uk
Profiles
Professor Gerd Masselink
Professor of Coastal Geomorphology
School of Marine Science and Engineering (Faculty of Science and Engineering)
Role
- Professor of Coastal Geomorphology
- Coastal Marine Applied Research (CMAR) consultancy
Qualifications
- 2009–current Professor in Coastal Geomorphology, School of Marine Science and Engineering, University of Plymouth, United Kingdom
- 2007–2009 Professor in Coastal Geomorphology, School of Geography, University of Plymouth, United Kingdom
- 2004–2007 Reader in Coastal Geomorphology, School of Geography, University of Plymouth, United Kingdom
- 2002–2004 Senior Lecturer in Physical Geography, Geography Department, Loughborough University, United Kingdom
- 1999–2002 Lecturer in Physical Geography, Geography Department, Loughborough University, United Kingdom
- 1997–1999 ARC Post-doctoral Fellow, Centre for Water Research, University of Western Australia, Australia
- 1995–1997 UWA Post-doctoral Fellow, Centre for Water Research, University of Western Australia, Australia
- 1990–1994 PhD, University of Sydney, Australia
- 1984–1990 Doctoral degree (MSc), University of Utrecht, The Netherlands
Professional membership
- Centre for Coastal and Ocean Science and Engineering (CCOSE)
- Marine Institute (MI)
- Coastal Zone Network (COZONE)
- European Network for Coastal Research (ENCORA)
Roles on external bodies
- Editorial Board of Marine Geology
Teaching interests
- GGP1108 - Introduction to Physical Geography (1st year)
- GGP2203 - Coastal Environments (2nd year) - Module Leader
- GGX2105 - Fieldwork in Geography - Ireland field trip (2nd year)
- GGX3105 - Dissertation in Geography (3rd year)
- OS308 - South Africa field trip - Module Leader
- MAR515 - Management of Coastal Systems (MSc) - Module Leader
- SCI5301 - MSc Dissertation
Staff serving as external examiners
- 2013 PhD External Examiner – Department of Physical Geography, University of Utrecht, The Netherlands (Timothy Price)
- 2011 PhD External Examiner – University of Queensland, Australia (Hannah Powers)
- 2011 PhD Committee – Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark, USA (Thijs Lanckriet)
- 2010 PhD External Examiner – Department of Geography, University of Pisa, Pisa, Italy (Duccio Bertoni)
- 2008 PhD External Examiner (Examinateur) – Department of Physical Oceanography, University of Brest, Brest, France (David Morellato)
- 2006 PhD External Examiner (Examinateur) – Université du Littoral, Côte d’Opale, Dunkirk, France (Mouncef Sedrati)
- 2005 PhD Internal Examiner – School of Engineering, University of Plymouth (Adrian Pedrozo-Acuña)
- 2004 PhD External Examiner – University of Sydney, Australia (Aaron Couts-Smith)
- 2003–2006 Undergraduate External examiner Physical Geography, Bath Spa University
- 2003 PhD External Examiner (Rapporteur) – Université du Littoral, Côte d’Opale, Dunkirk, France (Beatrice Reichmuth)
Research interests
- Beach processes and morphology
- Nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport
- Coastal geomorphology, morphodynamics and evolution
- Extreme storm response and recovery
Research degrees awarded to supervised students
PhD students
- 2015–current Nieves Garcia Valiente - Sediment Exchange between Beach and Inner Shelf (DoR)
- 2015–current Rafael Jesus Bergillos - Multi-Scale Dynamics of Mixed Sand and Gravel Deltaic Coasts (based at Granada University)
- 2014–current Olivier Burvingt - Recovery from 2013-14 Extreme Winter Storms (DoR)
- 2013–current Sebastian Pitman - Automatic Rip Detection (based at Southampton University)
- 2013–current Kris Inch - Infragravity Swash on Sandy Beaches
- 2011–2015 Claire Early – Coastal Cliff Erosion in Cornwall (DoR)
- 2011–2015 Pedro Almeida – Dynamics of mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches during Storms (DoR)
- 2011–2015 Anissia White – Ecological Changes in Restored Salt Marshes
- 2011–2015 Robert McCall – Modelling Gravel Beach Storm Response using XBeach (DoR)
- 2010–2014 Saul Reynolds – Tidal Dune Dynamics (no completion)
- 2010–current Antony Thorpe – Sediment Dynamics in Rip Currents
- 2009–2013 Suha Zoozi – Estuarine Pollution Dynamics in Agricultural River Basins
- 2008–2012 Tim Poate – Impact of Wave Hub on Shoreline Processes and Beach Morphology
- 2007–2011 Alison Nock – An ARC Marine Decision Support System for Coastal Flooding
- 2007–2010 Amaia Ruiz de Alegria Arzaburu – Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches (DoR)
- 2006–2010 Tim Scott – Classification of UK Beaches and Associated Nearshore Hazards (DoR)
- 2004–2008 Daniel Buscombe – Morpho-Sediment Dynamics of Gravel Beaches (DoR)
- 2002–2005 Martin Austin – Swash, Groundwater and Sediment Transport Processes on Gravel Beaches (DoR)
- 2000–2004 Darren Evans – Swash on Steep and Shallow Beaches (DoR)
- 2000–2004 Selma van Houwelingen – Spatial and Temporal Variability in Ridge and Runnel Morphology along the North Lincolnshire Coast, England (DoR)
- 2000–2004 Aafke Tonk – Longshore Sediment Transport on Low-Energy Beaches (DoR)
Grants & contracts
- 2015–2018 Science and Technology Foundation (Portugal), Evolution and Resilience of Barrier Island Systems (EVREST) (Consultant with Dr Ana Matias of Centre for Marine and Environmental Research, University of Algarve) (representing c. £120k)
- 2014–2016 EPSRC grant Waves Across Shore Platforms (WASP) (PI with Dr Austin of Bangor University) (£262,735k) (EP/L025191/1)
- 2014–2015 NERC Urgency grant Impact of sequence of extreme storms during 2013/14 winter on southwest coast of England (PI with Prof. Russell, Dr Davidson, Dr Conley, Dr Scott and Dr Fletcher of Plymouth University) (£50,595k) (NE/M004996/1)
- 2012–2014 EPSRC grant Proto-type Experiment and Numerical Modelling of Energetic Sediment Transport under Waves (PESTS) (CI with Dr Daniel Conley of University of Plymouth) (£240k) (EP/K000306/1)
- 2012–2013 Marine Institute Small Collaborative Research Grant, Quaternary Raised Beaches of Devon and Cornwall: New Data for an Old Problem (CI with Dr Matt Telfer, Prof. Roland Gehrels, Dr Will Marshall, Dr Ken Kingston and Dr Sarah Boulton of Plymouth University) (£5,000)
- 2012–2015 Science and Technology Foundation (Portugal), From runup to overwash (RUSH) (Consultant with Dr Ana Matias of Centre for Marine and Environmental Research , University of Algarve) (representing c. £85k)
- 2011–2015 Environment Agency Grant, Environmental Monitoring of Salt Marsh Restoration Project at South Efford (PI with Dr Ken Kingston, Dr Mick Hanley, Prof. Roland Gehrels and Dr Will Blake of Plymouth University) (£10,000)
- 2012–2013 Marine Institute Small Collaborative Research Grant, Evaluating Sediment Accretion Rates on Restored Saltmarshes using Fallout Be-7 (CI with Dr Will Blake and Dr Mick Hanley of Plymouth University) (£5,000)
- 2011–2014 European Social Fund, Great Western Research, PhD studentship Coastal Cliff Erosion in Cornwall (PI with Prof. Paul Russell of Plymouth University and Dr Robin Shail of Exeter University) (£60,000) (ID152)
- 2011–2016 EPSRC grant Adaption and Resilience of Coastal Energy Supply (ARCoES) (CI with Prof. Andrew Plater of University of Liverpool) (£150k + £50k studentship) (EP/IO35390/1)
- 2011-2012 European Community's Seventh Framework Programme, Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDRALAB IV Contract no. 261520 Barrier Dynamics Experiments II (PI with 14 international collaborators) (representing c. £300k)
- 2010–2012 NERC grant Dynamics of Rip Currents and Implications for Beach Safety (DRIBS) (PI with Dr Paul Russell of Plymouth University and the RNLI) (£396,192) (NE/H004262/1)
- 2010–2012 EPSRC grant New Understanding and Prediction of Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches (NUPSIG (PI with Dr Paul Russell and Prof. Jon Williams of Plymouth University) (£372,428 + £50,040 studentship) (EP/H040056/1)
- 2009–2011 Seale-Hayne Educational Trust grant Groundwater seepage through gravel barrier beaches: morphological stability and saline-freshwater mixing (£11,830) (CI with Dr Martin Austin of Plymouth University)
- 2008–2009 NERC small grant Beach change over individual wave cycles on sand and gravel beaches (£76,197) (PI with Dr Russell of Plymouth University) (NE/F009275/1)
- 2008 European Community's Sixth Framework Programme, Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDRALAB III Contract no. 022441 (RII3) Barrier Dynamics Experiments (representing c. £200k) (CI with Dr Jon Williams of Plymouth University and others)
- 2008 Seale-Hayne Educational Trust grant Estuarine Situation in Devon and Cornwall: the Role of Agricultural Land Use (£9,360) (CI with Dr Roland Gehrels and Dr Will Blake of Plymouth University)
- 2007–2010 NERC grant Coastal Flooding by Extreme Events (CoFEE) (CI with Dr Jon Williams and Dr Luciana Estevez of Plymouth University) (£180,000) (NE/E002471/1)
- 2007-2010 South-West Regional Development Agency (SWERDA) Wave Hub Impacts on Shoreline and Sediment Processes (WHISSP) (representing c. £450k) (CI with Dr Jon Williams of Plymouth University and others)
- 2007–2009 ARC Discovery Grant Wave-by-wave bed-level changes at the beachface of gravel and sand beaches (AUD$304,300) (PI with Dr Ian Turner of University of New South Wales and Dr Russell of Plymouth University) (DP0770118)
- 2006–2008 Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) Classification and risk assessment of UK beaches (£30,000) (with Dr Russell of Plymouth University)
- 2005–2007 South Hams Society Avon Estuary siltation project (£12,600) (CI with Dr Blake and Dr Gehrels of Plymouth University)
- 2004–2007 NERC grant Cross-shore sediment transport and profile evolution on natural beaches (X-SHORE) (£235,084) (CI with Dr Russell and Dr O’Hare of Plymouth University) (NER/A/S/2003/00553)
- 2000–2004 NERC grant The role of swash in shoreline change (£268,149) (CI with Dr Russell of Plymouth University) (NER/S/J/2000/04060)
- 2000–2004 NERC grant Spatial and temporal variability in ridge and runnel morphology (£35,510) (NER/M/S/2000/00281)
- 2000–2004 EPSRC grant Longshore sediment transport on low-energy beaches (£52,182) (PI)
- 2000 The Royal Society Conference Grant (£800) (RSS/SG/22387/994/D2)
Research groups
- Coastal Processes
Key publications are highlighted
Journals
Articles
2016
'Dynamics of rip currents associated with groynes - field measurements, modelling and implications for beach safety'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
107,
53-69
, DOI
2016
'Extreme wave activity during 2013/2014 winter and morphological impacts along the Atlantic coast of Europe'
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
43,
(5)
2135-2143
, DOI
PEARL
2016
'Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a micro-tidal mixed sand and gravel beach, Playa Granada, southern Spain'
Marine Geology
379,
28-38
, DOI
PEARL
2016
'Preface: Monitoring and modelling to guide coastal adaptation to extreme storm events in a changing climate'
NATURAL HAZARDS AND EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCES
16,
(2)
463-467
, DOI
2016
'The extreme 2013/2014 winter storms: hydrodynamic forcing and coastal response along the southwest coast of England'
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
41,
(3)
378-391
, DOI
PEARL
2015
'Application of airborne LiDAR to investigate rates of recession in rocky coast environments'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL CONSERVATION
19,
(6)
831-845
, DOI
2015
'Coastal cliff ground motions and response to extreme storm waves'
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
42,
(3)
847-854
, DOI
PEARL
2015
'Modelling the morphodynamics of gravel beaches during storms with XBeach-G'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
103,
52-66
, DOI
PEARL
2015
'Observations of gravel beach dynamics during high energy wave conditions using a laser scanner'
GEOMORPHOLOGY
228,
15-27
, DOI
PEARL
2015
'Vertical structure of near-bed cross-shore flow velocities in the swash zone of a dissipative beach'
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
101,
98-108
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Comprehensive Field Study of Swash-Zone Processes. I: Experimental Design with Examples of Hydrodynamic and Sediment Transport Measurements'
JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
140,
(1)
14-28
, DOI
2014
'Comprehensive Field Study of Swash-Zone Processes. II: Sheet Flow Sediment Concentrations during Quasi-Steady Backwash'
JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING
140,
(1)
29-42
, DOI
2014
'Controls on macrotidal rip current circulation and hazard'
GEOMORPHOLOGY
214,
198-215
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Megaripple dynamics on a dissipative sandy beach'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
187-192
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Modelling storm hydrodynamics on gravel beaches with XBeach-G'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
91,
231-250
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Modelling storm response on gravel beaches using XBeach-G'
Proceedings of the ICE - Maritime Engineering
PEARL
2014
'Morphodynamic variability of high-energy macrotidal beaches, Cornwall, UK'
Marine Geology
350,
(0)
97-111
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Observations of bedforms on a dissipative macrotidal beach'
OCEAN DYNAMICS
64,
(2)
225-239
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Response of wave-dominated and mixed-energy barriers to storms'
MARINE GEOLOGY
352,
321-347
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Role of wave forcing, storms and NAO in outer bar dynamics on a high-energy, macro-tidal beach'
GEOMORPHOLOGY
226,
76-93
, DOI
PEARL
2014
'Storm-driven cusp behaviour on a high energy gravel beach'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
645-650
, DOI
2013
'BARDEX II: Bringing the beach to the laboratory - again!'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
1545-1550
, DOI
2013
'Coastal sand barrier hydrology - observations from the BARDEX II prototype-scale laboratory experiment'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
1886-1891
, DOI
2013
'Groundwater dynamics in coastal gravel barriers backed by freshwater lagoons and the potential for saline intrusion: Two cases from the UK'
JOURNAL OF MARINE SYSTEMS
123,
19-32
, DOI
PEARL
2013
'High frequency in-situ field measurements of morphological response on a fine gravel beach during energetic wave conditions'
MARINE GEOLOGY
342,
1-13
, DOI
2013
'Observations of the swash zone on a gravel beach during a storm using a laser-scanner (Lidar)'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
636-641
, DOI
2013
'Rip Current Prediction: Development, Validation, and Evaluation of an Operational Tool'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
29,
(2)
283-300
, DOI
2013
'Sensitivity analysis of the methodology for quantifying cliff erosion using airborne LiDAR - examples from Cornwall, UK'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
470-475
, DOI
2013
'Suspended Sediment Transport in Rip Currents on a Macrotidal Beach'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
1880-1885
, DOI
2013
'Testing numerical hydrodynamic and morphodynamic models against BARDEX II Experiment data sets'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
1745-1750
, DOI
2012
'Barrier dynamics experiment (BARDEX): Aims, design and procedures'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
63,
3-12
, DOI
2012
'Coastal gravel barrier hydrology - Observations from a prototype-scale laboratory experiment (BARDEX)'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
63,
13-22
, DOI
2012
'DEPTHS OF MODERN COASTAL SAND CLINOFORMS'
JOURNAL OF SEDIMENTARY RESEARCH
82,
(7-8)
469-481
, DOI
2012
'Field measurements of bed forms in a rip channel on a macro-tidal beach'
2012
'Large-scale laboratory investigation into the effect of varying back-barrier lagoon water levels on gravel beach morphology and swash zone sediment transport'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
63,
23-38
, DOI
2011
'Alongshore fluid motions in the swash zone of a sandy and gravel beach'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
58,
(8)
690-705
, DOI
2011
'Morphodynamic characteristics and classification of beaches in England and Wales'
MARINE GEOLOGY
286,
(1-4)
1-20
, DOI
PEARL
2011
'The ECORS-Truc Vert'08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions'
OCEAN DYNAMICS
61,
(12)
2073-2098
, DOI
2010
'Determination of wave-shoreline dynamics on a macrotidal gravel beach using Canonical Correlation Analysis'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
57,
(3)
290-303
, DOI
2010
'Storm response and beach rotation on a gravel beach, Slapton Sands, UK'
MARINE GEOLOGY
278,
(1-4)
77-99
, DOI
2010
'Swash zone sediment transport, step dynamics and morphological response on a gravel beach'
MARINE GEOLOGY
274,
(1-4)
50-68
, DOI
2010
'Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a macro-tidal beach'
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
30,
(9)
1149-1165
, DOI
2010
'Validation of volume continuity method for estimation of cross-shore swash flow velocity'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
57,
(10)
953-958
, DOI
2009
'A Comparison of Berm Accretion in the Swash Zone on Sand and Gravel Beaches at the Timescale of Individual Waves'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
1791-1795
2009
'A cross-shore suspended sediment transport shape function parameterisation for natural beaches'
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
29,
(16)
1948-1960
, DOI
2009
'Field Observations of Sediment Fluxes in the Inner-Surf and Swash Zones'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
25,
(4)
991-1001
, DOI
2009
'Grain-size information from the statistical properties of digital images of sediment'
SEDIMENTOLOGY
56,
(2)
421-438
, DOI
2009
'In-situ estimates of net sediment flux per swash: Reply to discussion by TE Baldock of "Measurement of wave-by-wave bed-levels in the swash zone"'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
56,
(9)
1009-1012
, DOI
2009
'Net sediment transport and morphological change in the swash zone of a high-energy sandy beach from swash event to tidal cycle time scales'
MARINE GEOLOGY
267,
(1-2)
18-35
, DOI
2009
'Onshore sediment transport on a sandy beach under varied wave conditions: Flow velocity skewness, wave asymmetry or bed ventilation?'
MARINE GEOLOGY
259,
(1-4)
86-101
, DOI
2009
'Tide-driven dune migration and sediment transport on an intertidal shoal in a shallow estuary in Devon, UK'
MARINE GEOLOGY
262,
(1-4)
82-95
, DOI
2008
'Cross-shore sediment transport and morphological response on a macrotidal beach with intertidal bar morphology, Truc Vert, France'
MARINE GEOLOGY
251,
(3-4)
141-155
, DOI
2008
'Dynamics of multiple intertidal bars over semidiurnal and lunar tidal cycles, North Lincolnshire, England'
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
33,
(10)
1473-1490
, DOI
2008
'Sediment trend models fail to reproduce small-scale sediment transport patterns on an intertidal beach'
SEDIMENTOLOGY
55,
(3)
667-687
, DOI
2008
'Shifting gravel: a case study of Slapton Sands'
Geography Review
22,
27-31
2008
'The effect of bedform dynamics on computing suspended sediment fluxes using optical backscatter sensors and current meters'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
55,
(3)
251-260
, DOI
2007
'Beach Rescue Statistics and their Relation to Nearshore Morphology and Hazards: A Case Study for Southwest England'
J COASTAL RES
(SI 50)
1-6
2007
'Beach rescue statistics and their relation to nearshore morphology and hazards: a case study for south-west England. International Coastal Symposium'
Journal of Coastal Research
Special Issue 50, 1-6,
1-6
2007
'Geometry and dynamics of wave ripples in the nearshore zone of a coarse sandy beach'
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
112,
(C10)
, DOI
2007
'Relaxation time effects of wave ripples on tidal beaches'
GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS
34,
(16)
, DOI
2007
'Short-term morphological change and sediment dynamics in the intertidal zone of a macrotidal beach'
SEDIMENTOLOGY
54,
(1)
39-53
, DOI
2006
'Characteristics and dynamics of multiple intertidal bars, north Lincolnshire, England'
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
31,
(4)
428-443
, DOI
2006
'Evidence of a mid-Holocene sea level highstand from the sedimentary record of a macrotidal barrier and paleoestuary system in northwestern Australia'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
22,
(1)
100-112
, DOI
2006
'Flow velocities, sediment transport and morphological change in the swash zone of two contrasting beaches'
MARINE GEOLOGY
227,
(3-4)
227-240
, DOI
2006
'Observations of morphological change and sediment transport on a steep gravel beach'
MARINE GEOLOGY
229,
(1-2)
59-77
, DOI
2006
'Swash-groundwater interaction on a steep gravel beach'
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
26,
(20)
2503-2519
, DOI
2005
'Evaluation of longshore transport equations with OBS sensors, streamer traps, and fluorescent tracer'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
21,
(5)
915-+
, DOI
2005
'Suspended sediment transport in the swash zone of a dissipative beach'
MARINE GEOLOGY
216,
(3)
169-189
, DOI
2005
'The application of Bagnold-type sediment transport models in the swash zone'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
21,
(5)
887-895
, DOI
2004
'Formation and evolution of multiple intertidal bars on macrotidal beaches: application of a morphodynamic model'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
51,
(8-9)
713-730
, DOI
2004
'Implications of bore turbulence in the swash and inner surf zones'
Continental Shelf Research
24,
757-771
2004
'Test of edge wave forcing during formation of rhythmic beach morphology'
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
109,
(C6)
, DOI
2004
'The influence of bore turbulence on sediment transport in the swash and inner surf zones'
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
24,
(7-8)
757-771
, DOI
2004
'The role of bore collapse and local shear stresses on the spatial distribution of sediment load in the uprush of an intermediate-state beach'
MARINE GEOLOGY
203,
(1-2)
109-118
, DOI
2002
'BeachWin: modelling groundwater effects on swash sediment transport and beach profile changes'
ENVIRONMENTAL MODELLING & SOFTWARE
17,
(3)
313-320
, DOI
2002
''Low energy' sandy beaches in marine and estuarine environments: a review'
GEOMORPHOLOGY
48,
(1-3)
147-162
, DOI
2002
'Morphodynamics of intertidal bar morphology on a macrotidal beach under low-energy wave conditions, North Lincolnshire, England'
MARINE GEOLOGY
190,
(3-4)
591-608
, DOI
2001
'Characteristics of the sea breeze system in Perth, Western Australia, and its effect on the nearshore wave climate'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
17,
(1)
173-187
2001
'Location and height of intertidal bars on macrotidal ridge and runnel beaches'
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
26,
(7)
759-774
, DOI
2001
'Seasonal changes in beach morphology along the sheltered coastline of Perth, Western Australia'
MARINE GEOLOGY
172,
(3-4)
243-263
, DOI
2001
'Seasonal variation in nearshore processes and beach morphology along the sheltered coastline of Perth, Western Australia'
Marine Geology
172,
242-263
2001
'The role of swash infiltration in determining the beachface gradient: a numerical study'
MARINE GEOLOGY
176,
(1-4)
139-156
, DOI
2000
'Tidal asymmetry in sediment resuspension on a macrotidal beach in northwestern Australia'
MARINE GEOLOGY
163,
(1-4)
257-274
, DOI
1999
'A morphodynamic model to simulate the seasonal closure of tidal inlets'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
37,
(1)
1-36
, DOI
1999
'Alongshore variation in beach cusp morphology in a coastal embayment'
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
24,
(4)
335-347
, DOI
1999
'Offshore wave climate, Perth (Western Australia), 1994-96'
MARINE AND FRESHWATER RESEARCH
50,
(2)
95-102
, DOI
1998
'Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone'
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
18,
(10)
1179-1199
, DOI
1998
'Field investigation of wave propagation over a bar and the consequent generation of secondary waves'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
33,
(1)
1-9
, DOI
1998
'Flow velocity and sediment transport in the swash zone of a steep beach (vol 138, pg 91, 1997)'
MARINE GEOLOGY
145,
(1-2)
149-149
, DOI
1998
'Morphodynamic impact of sea breeze activity on a beach with beach cusp morphology'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
14,
(2)
393-406
1998
'Morphological evolution of beach cusps and associated swash circulation patterns'
MARINE GEOLOGY
146,
(1-4)
93-113
, DOI
1998
'Swash infiltration-exfiltration and sediment transport'
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS
103,
(C13)
30813-30824
, DOI
1998
'The effect of sea breeze on beach morphology, surf zone hydrodynamics and sediment resuspension'
MARINE GEOLOGY
146,
(1-4)
115-135
, DOI
1997
'Flow velocity and sediment transport in the swash zone of a steep beach'
MARINE GEOLOGY
138,
(1-2)
91-103
, DOI
1996
'Spectral analysis of geomorphic time series: Auto-spectrum'
EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS
21,
(11)
1021-1040
, DOI
1996
'The effect of the sea breeze on nearshore processes in Western Australia'
Journal of the Royal Society of Western Australia
79,
199-205
1995
'BARRIER STRATIGRAPHY ON THE MACROTIDAL CENTRAL QUEENSLAND COASTLINE, AUSTRALIA'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
11,
(2)
454-477
1995
'GROUP BOUND LONG WAVES AS A SOURCE OF INFRAGRAVITY ENERGY IN THE SURF ZONE'
CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH
15,
(13)
1525-1547
, DOI
1995
'MAGNITUDE AND CROSS-SHORE DISTRIBUTION OF BED RETURN-FLOW MEASURED ON NATURAL BEACHES'
COASTAL ENGINEERING
25,
(3-4)
165-190
, DOI
1995
'Morphodynamic evolution of a macrotidal barrier estuary'
MARINE GEOLOGY
129,
(1-2)
25-46
, DOI
1995
'Morphodynamics of meso- and macrotidal beaches: Examples from central Queensland, Australia'
MARINE GEOLOGY
129,
(1-2)
1-23
, DOI
1993
'LONGSHORE VARIATION OF GRAIN-SIZE DISTRIBUTION ALONG THE COAST OF THE RHONE DELTA, SOUTHERN FRANCE - A TEST OF THE MCLAREN MODEL - REPLY'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
9,
(4)
1142-1145
1993
'Simulating the effects of tides on beach morphodynamics'
J COASTAL RES
S.I 15,
180-197
1993
'THE EFFECT OF TIDE RANGE ON BEACH MORPHODYNAMICS AND MORPHOLOGY - A CONCEPTUAL BEACH MODEL'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
9,
(3)
785-800
1992
'LONGSHORE VARIATION OF GRAIN-SIZE DISTRIBUTION ALONG THE COAST OF THE RHONE DELTA, SOUTHERN FRANCE - A TEST OF THE MCLAREN MODEL'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
8,
(2)
286-291
1991
'GROUNDWATER-TABLE RESPONSES TO WAVE RUN-UP - AN EXPERIMENTAL-STUDY FROM WESTERN AUSTRALIA'
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
7,
(3)
623-634
Reviews
2010
'The Coast of Australia'
GEOGR J
176,
376-377
2006
'Morphodynamics of intertidal bars in wave-dominated coastal settings - A review'
Geomorphology
73,
(1-2)
33-49
Books
2003
Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology.
Arnold, London
Chapters
2011
'Rip current hazards on large-tidal beaches in the United Kingdom'
in Leatherman S
Rip Currents
CRC Press
225-243
2010
'Impacts of Climate Change on Coastal Erosion and Geomorphology'
in Buckley PJ; Dye SR; Baxter JM
Marine Climate Change Impacts Annual Report Card 2010, Online Summary Reports, www.mccip.org.uk.
MCCIP, Lowestoft
2008
'Coasts'
in Holden J
An Introduction to Physical Geography and the Environment
Prentice Hall
467-507
2006
'Beach cusps'
Encyclopaedia of Geomorphology
Kluwer
2006
'Macrotidal beaches'
Encyclopaedia of Geomorphology
Kluwer
2005
'Wave refraction diagrams'
in Schwartz ML
Encyclopaedia of Coastal Science
Springer, Dordrecht
1065-1068
2005
'Waves'
in Schwartz ML
Encyclopaedia of Coastal Science
Springer, Dordrecht
1069-1074
2004
'Ridge and runnel topography'
in Goudie AS
Encyclopaedia of Geomorphology
Routledge, London
848-848
2003
'Sandy beaches'
Encyclopaedia of Life Support Systems
UNESCO
1999
'Embayed and structurally controlled beaches'
in Short AD
Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics
London
Wiley
230-250
1999
'The effects of tides on beach morphodynamics'
in Short AD
Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics
London
Wiley
204-229
1999
'The surf zone'
in Short AD
Handbook of beach and shoreface morphodynamics
London
Wiley
72-118
1998
'Formation and self-maintenance of beach cusps on a natural beach'
in Dronkers JJ; Scheffers M
Physics of estuaries and coastal seas
Rotterdam
Balkema
179-186
Conference Papers
2016
'Accurate Estimation of Wave Reflection on a High Energy, Dissipative Beach'
//0
//0
877-881
, DOI
2016
'Beach response to consecutive extreme storms using LiDAR along the SW coast of England'
//0
//0
1052-1056
, DOI
2016
'Spatio-temporal Variability in the Tipping Points of a Coastal Defense'
//0
//0
1042-1046
, DOI
2011
'3D Beach response to seasonal wave climate, Cornwall, UK'
Coastal Sediments
Florida, USA
//0
//0
ASCE
2011
'Detailed analysis of overwash on a gravel barrier'
//0
//0
10-14
2010
'Application of XBeach to model storm response on a macrotidal gravel barrier'
32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Shanghai, China
//0
//0
2009
'BARDEX (Barrier Dynamics Experiment): Taking the Beach into the Laboratory'
//0
//0
158-162
2009
'FIELD INVESTIGATIONS OF WAVE RIPPLE DYNAMICS IN THE SHALLOW NEARSHORE OF TWO SANDY BEACHES'
//0
//0
1533-1545
2009
'FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF NET SEDIMENT FLUX FROM INDIVIDUAL SWASHES ON A SANDY BEACH'
//0
//0
2009
'GRANULAR PROPERTIES FROM DIGITAL IMAGES OF SEDIMENT: IMPLICATIONS FOR COASTAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MODELLING'
//0
//0
1625-1637
2009
'GROUNDWATER SEEPAGE BETWEEN A GRAVEL BARRIER BEACH AND A FRESHWATER LAGOON'
//0
//0
4572-4584
2009
'HIGH VOLUME SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND ITS IMPLICATIONS FOR RECREATIONAL BEACH RISK'
//0
//0
4250-4262
2009
'Large-Scale Laboratory Investigation into the Effect of the Beach Groundwater Table on Gravel Beach Morphology'
//0
//0
93-97
2009
'Measurements of net cross-shore sediment flux at the timescale of individual swashes'
Proceedings of Australasian Coasts and Ports
Wellington, New Zealand
//0
//0
2009
'MONITORING STORM IMPACTS ON A GRAVEL BEACH USING THE ARGUS VIDEO SYSTEM'
//0
//0
2633-2645
2009
'Prototype-scale laboratory investigation of groundwater manipulation within a gravel barrier'
Coasts and Ports
Wellington, New Zealand
//0
//0
2009
'Response of High-energy, Macrotidal Beaches to Seasonal Changes in Wave Conditions: Examples from North Cornwall, UK'
//0
//0
747-751
2009
'Rip current variability and hazard along a macro-tidal coast'
//0
//0
895-899
2009
'STORM RESPONSE AND BEACH ROTATION ON A GRAVEL BEACH'
//0
//0
2008
'Bed-level change over individual swash cycles on sand and gravel beaches'
31st International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Hamburg, Germany
//0
//0
ASCE
168-179
2007
'Beach rescue statistics and their relation to nearshore morphology and hazards; a case study for southwest England'
International Coastal Symposium
Goldcoast, Australia
//0
//0
1-6
2007
'Field observations of step dynamics on a macrotidal gravel beach'
Coastal Sediments ‘07
New Orleans, USA
//0
//0
2006
'Field measurements of velocity moment shape functions'
Proceedings 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, San Diego, World Scientific
//0
//0
3987-3999
2005
'Field measurements of flow velocities on a dissipative and reflective beach – implications for swash sediment transport'
Coastal Dynamics 2005 - State of the Practice: Proceedings of 5th International Conference
//0
//0
2005
'Infiltration and exfiltration on a steep gravel beach: implications for sediment transport'
Coastal Dynamics '05
Barcelona, Spain
//0
//0
2005
'The variation under different conditions of the influence of in-exfiltration on swash-zone sediment transport'
//0
//0
2377-2389
2003
'Application of Bagnold’s model in the swash zone using field data'
Coastal Dynamics '03
Florida, USA
//0
//0
2003
'Simulating the formation of ridge and runnel morphology: are the ridges a series of intertidal bars'
Coastal Dynamics '03
Florida, USA
//0
//0
2002
'An integrative approach to investigating the role of swash in shoreline change'
28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Cardiff, England
//0
//0
917-928
2002
'Longshore sediment transport due to sea breezes: an impoundment study'
28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Cardiff, England
//0
//0
2754-2766
2000
'Fractal behaviour in nearshore processes'
27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Sydney, Australia
//0
//0
2901-2913
1999
'Cross-shore distribution of bedforms and sediment suspension on a sheltered sandy beach in south-western Australia'
Ports & Coasts Conference
Perth, Australia
//0
//0
732-737
1999
'Surfability of the Perth metropolitan coastline: An assessment'
Coasts and Ports '99 Challenges and Directions for the New Century
Perth, Australia
//0
//0
490-495
1998
'Beach cusp morphology and swash circulation'
International Coastal Symposium
Palm Beach, USA
//0
//0
88-95
1998
'Formation and self-maintenance of beach cusps on a natural beach'
//0
//0
179-186
1998
'Sea breeze climatology and nearshore processes along the Perth metropolitan coastline'
26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Copenhagen, Denmark
//0
//0
ASCE
3165-3177
1998
'Sea breeze effects on nearshore coastal processes'
Proceedings of the 5th Conference on Coastal and Port Engineering in Developing Countries
Cape Town, South Africa
//0
//0
37-48
1998
'Seasonal inlet closure: governing processes'
International Coastal Symposium
Palm Beach, USA
//0
//0
32-41
1997
'Towards a better understanding of swash zone sediment transport'
Coastal Sediments ’97
Plymouth
//0
//0
804-813
1996
'Sea breeze effects on nearshore coastal processes'
25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,
Orlando, USA
//0
//0
4200-4213
1993
'Attenuation coefficients on natural beaches'
11th Australasian Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Townsville, Australia
//0
//0
105-110
1992
'PLANFORM CHANGES OF A BRAIDED RIVER WITH FINE SAND AS BED AND BANK MATERIAL'
//0
//0
459-471
0
'Dating recent salt-marsh sediments with radionuclides: a tentative look inside the ‘Black Box’'
IGCP-495 UK working group meeting, Wye, Kent
09/07/2006
12/07/2006
0
'A comparison of berm accretion in the swash zone on sand and gravel beaches'
International Coastal Symposium
Lisbon, Portugal
//0
//0
1791-1795
0
'Destruction of intertidal bar morphology during a summer storm surge event: Example of positive morphodynamic feedback'
International Coastal Symposium
Poland
//0
//0
105-109
0
'Storm-induced dynamics and its management implications on a macrotidal gravel beach'
Proceedings of the 4th International Short Conference on Applied Coastal Research
//0
//0
Barcelona, Spain
ASCE
Other academic activities
Editorial board: Coastal Engineering (2014–current), Marine Geology (2012–current), Journal of Coastal Research (2005–2011)
Grant review: Natural Environment Research Council (NERC; UK), Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC; UK), Israel Science Foundation (ISF), Leverhulme Trust (UK), Australian Research Council (ARC), Good Science Fund (New Zealand), National Research Council of Rumania, Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council of Canada (NSERC), Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research (NOSR), Research Grants Council Hong Kong, Swiss National Science Foundation, Technology Foundation STW Netherlands
Journal review: Applied Geography, Area, Brazilian Journal of Oceanography, Coastal Engineering, Continental Shelf Research, Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, Earth Science Reviews, Environmental Science and Policy, Estuarine Coastal and Shelf Science, Geology, Geo-Marine Letters, Geomorphology, Geophysical Research Letters – Earth, Geophysical Research Letters – Oceans, Journal of Coastal Research, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Journal of Geophysical Research, Journal of Maps, Journal of Oceanography and Marine Science, Journal of Operational Oceanography, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, Marine Geology, Ocean Engineering, Sedimentology, Sedimentary Geology, Zeitschrift fur Geomorphologie
Links
- Waves Across Shore Platforms (WASP)
- Coastal response to extreme 2013/14 storms
- BARDEX II Barrier Dynamics Experiment II (BARDEX II)
- Adaptation and Resliences of Coastal Energy Supply in the UK (ARCoES)
- New Understanding and Prediction on Storm Impacts in Gravel beaches (NUPSIG)
- Dynamics of Rips and Implications for Beach Safety (DRIBS)
- Bed-level project: beach change over individual wave cycles on sand and gravel beaches
- Barrier Dynamics Experiment (BARDEX)
- Classification of the coast of England and Wales